Monday, June 19, 2006

Powerboat to Peru

The morning after we returned from the Jungle, Rebecca and I went about another day of pounding the pavement taking care of all of the things that we did the day after we arrived in Leticia the first time: laundry, internet, moving pictures to a CD, etc... We also did a bit of shopping for touristy items, but like Brazil, did not find very much that we liked.

The most important thing we did on our day in Leticia was cross back into Brazil where we went to the boat office and reconfirmed our tickets for the following day. We also went to the federal police station and officially exited Brazil. We spent all evening sorting and repacking all of our gear. It took a while to say the least. Mind you, we were technically not in ANY country at this point since we had gotten exit stamps in our passports!

The next day we got up at 3:15 in the morning caught a taxi down to a small harbor in Brazil where we caught a boat to an island out in the middle of the river that served as the boat station and immigration control. This is of course simply a large floating dock tied to the back that has two small tables. One had a guy that dealt with your tickets and after he was through with you there was another guy who stamped you into Peru. All told, we were country-less for about 12 hours, during which time we had technically set foot in three different countries.

Our transportation up the Amazon River was an enclosed speed boat that held 20 people. It hurtled along the river at a break neck speed and the captain would weave back and forth between the patches of vegetation, logs, and trees that were floating with the current. I found the pace to be wonderful as it meant that there was always something new to look at. I was also definitely over the whole slow boat thing by that point.



Including several stops for gas, it took 10 hours to reach Iquitos, Peru. Waiting for us at a small unassuming out of the way dock were of course. The touts. Within 5 seconds of the boat's door being opened we had ten offers for a taxi. My head just dropped and thudded against the back of the seat in front of me. I hate touts. Let me repeat that. I hate touts. The insistent, unrelenting, annoyance of "I have a taxi", "You need a taxi?" and "This way my friend" infuriates me faster than any other single thing when I travel. It was especially bad this time around because I had been cooped up in a tiny cramped seat for ten hours. Then you have to fight with them to carry your own bags. They are completely deaf to the word no.

In the end I did what I always do, I picked the one taxi driver who had not harassed us. I like to think that this strategy will teach something to the rest of the drivers, but I am pretty sure that the intention is completely lost.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

What I've tended to do is to make every effort to learn enough of the language while I'm there so that, by the end when I meet touts, I can politely but firmly tell them off while moving to that one calm taxi driver!! I feel your pain :)